March Landscapes – the To Do List

Sirhornsalot

**The Official Horn Sports Landscaper and Landscap
Nov 6, 2013
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March has a long To Do List for us!

March is here and Spring is finally in sight! This month we’ll be making all the final preparations for the spring and summer growing season. In this month’s column, we’ll talk about those preparations and more.

Lawn Maintenance

Before you begin the lawn maintenance season, it’s a great idea to first check/replace the vital parts and fluids of your mower. Here are some of the things you should check.

1. Spark Plug – unscrew your spark plug from the engine, being careful to not damage the plug as you take it out. Once you do, examine the plug for corrosion and residue. If it’s pretty dirty, replace it. Take the plug with you when you go to buy the replacement.

When you put the new plug, be careful not to overtighten the plug as you screw it in.

2. Idle/drive cable – this cable and the transmission cable (on some self-propelled models) should be checked for integrity. If you observe frayed wire, then replace the cable.

3. Gas – I advise to empty the gas tank if you didn’t use a product like “Stabil” in the gas over the winter. Condensation forms on the inside of your gas tank through the winter months. This results in condensation mixing in with the gas. This is not good for the engine. It is best to either use a product like Stabil which helps the condensation problem or empty the tank and put new gas in.

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4. Oil – If you haven’t changed your mower’s oil, it is best to get that done before using the mower again. Empty the oil from the mower and replace with new oil. It is best to use an oil that is specifically designed for lawnmower engines.

5. Mower blade – It is best to remove the blade this time of year and sharpen them before they start cutting grass again. I advise sharpening them a few times each season. If you are uncertain how to do this, you can take the blade to most mower shops and they will do it for you for a small fee. If your blade looks damaged, then go ahead and buy a new one to replace it.

6. Nuts and bolts – Look over your mower good to check all the nuts and bolts to make sure they are fastened properly. The vibration of a mower can cause a bolt to loosen. Tighten them back down as needed.

If you can perform these tasks prior to beginning the new mowing season, your mower should hold up well over the entire season!

7. The season’s first mow should happen the first or second week of March. For the first mow, we want to mow it short. Do not scalp the lawn, but mow it shorter than usual. Doing this achieves two things: 1) your turf will come out of dormancy faster as sunlight is allowed to hit the soil surface, heating up the root system of the grass, and 2) Weeds will grow in March and the worst thing we can do is allow those weeds to seed out and create more weeds. So keep it mowed this month even though your turf may not be growing much.

Landscape Maintenance

1. Cut back the ornamental grasses. Ornamental grasses can look awesome, but if you don’t cut them back you may have trouble keeping them so nice. So many times the center of an ornamental grass dies out and you’re left with blades surrounding a vacant center. Triming them back to begin the growing season gives that center more sunlight, and a better chance of redevelopment.

2. Trim those Roses! It is best to trim roses when it is not hot. So this is a good month to trim them as March stays relatively cool. Remember to trim at a 45 degree angle with roses. With hybrid shrub roses, a shrub trimmer can be used.

3. Hydrangeas – cut them back or no? It’s a choice but it is important to know the result of the choice before you do. While Hydrangeas tend to look a bit unsightly coming out of winter dormancy, if you cut them back you may end up with fewer blooms and wait longer to see those blooms. What looks like dead stems coming out of the center are not actually dead. The plant will reclaim those stems and the first blooms of the season will come from these stems. And they’ll come out sooner than if you trimmed.

4. If you have Live Oak trees, March is the month of the Live Oak molt, where the tree will shed every single leaf it has while growing new ones at the same time. This makes for a messy march and can interfere with your turf’s emergence if the leaves are left standing on the lawn. This period will last about three weeks. It is best to gather the leaves weekly and not wait until it’s over to collect them. You would be amazed at how many leaves they will drop.

5. Do NOT hack your Crape Myrtles!! I know, I know, you’ve seen this done to Crape Myrtles every year for decades. But the science says that cutting them back severely as we see (hence the term “hack”) prevents the tree’s limbs from development and maturing. Due to that issue, the limbs can become easy to break in the spring thunderstorms. Trim Crape Myrtles just like we trim all other trees.

6. It is best not to trim Oak trees from March through June. This is the period of time where Oak Wilt is spread and having fresh cuts on a tree leaves it exposed to this disease. There is a decent chance that trimming your Oaks during this time would not result in Oak Wilt. But why risk it? The wise move is to forego the trimming until after June.

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Spring flowers!

Don’t do it. Just don’t do it. Not until April 1 or after!

I have seen too many times homeowners buying $300-$500 in annual flowers, prep the beds and plant them, and a week later they’re dead because we had a hard frost. Wait until April 1 or after to plant those annuals as by that date we’ve seen our last frost. Relax and watch them grow!!

Sprinkler check

I’ve said it for several months this cold season, I’ll say it again. It is good to test your sprinkler system to make sure all heads, drips, etc, are operating properly. Turn on each zone, taking a few minutes to observe any issues, and correct those as you go. Doing this now goes a long way in making the spring and summer more successful.
 
Question on live oaks. I have one that died. I don't understand how because it got the same water as the other that is doing great and grass was always green around it. But that said, when would replace it? I scratched with key and didn't see green. I waited to get past winter to see if it was just dormant due to heat stress but no sign of recovery.

The tree is in Georgetown and in full sun all day. Anything I can do differently this next summer? I watered the crap out of them last year and still didn't survive the summer. The tree was a 30 gallon that had been there since Oct 21 and made it through the couple of freezes we had but didn't make it through the summer. I'll probably replace with either a 30 gal or a 45 gal live oak.
 
Question on live oaks. I have one that died. I don't understand how because it got the same water as the other that is doing great and grass was always green around it. But that said, when would replace it? I scratched with key and didn't see green. I waited to get past winter to see if it was just dormant due to heat stress but no sign of recovery.

The tree is in Georgetown and in full sun all day. Anything I can do differently this next summer? I watered the crap out of them last year and still didn't survive the summer. The tree was a 30 gallon that had been there since Oct 21 and made it through the couple of freezes we had but didn't make it through the summer. I'll probably replace with either a 30 gal or a 45 gal live oak.
I live really close to Georgetown, neighbors and I had live oaks die while others in the same yard lived. Blame the big freeze that hit a couple of years ago, that probably did them in.
 
Question on live oaks. I have one that died. I don't understand how because it got the same water as the other that is doing great and grass was always green around it. But that said, when would replace it? I scratched with key and didn't see green. I waited to get past winter to see if it was just dormant due to heat stress but no sign of recovery.

The tree is in Georgetown and in full sun all day. Anything I can do differently this next summer? I watered the crap out of them last year and still didn't survive the summer. The tree was a 30 gallon that had been there since Oct 21 and made it through the couple of freezes we had but didn't make it through the summer. I'll probably replace with either a 30 gal or a 45 gal live oak.
Did the leaves turn yellow from the veins to the tip or the other way around? From veins to tip is oak wilt. Between oak wilt and snovid, three quarters of my live oaks have died. The only upside is that I have more pasture grass now, if the thistle don't take over.
 
Question on live oaks. I have one that died. I don't understand how because it got the same water as the other that is doing great and grass was always green around it. But that said, when would replace it? I scratched with key and didn't see green. I waited to get past winter to see if it was just dormant due to heat stress but no sign of recovery.

The tree is in Georgetown and in full sun all day. Anything I can do differently this next summer? I watered the crap out of them last year and still didn't survive the summer. The tree was a 30 gallon that had been there since Oct 21 and made it through the couple of freezes we had but didn't make it through the summer. I'll probably replace with either a 30 gal or a 45 gal live oak.
You have to be careful not to overwater a Live Oak. They don't like a lot of water. Lots of things can happen when planting a tree. The most common mistake I see is digging the hole too deep, then realizing that and attempting to add soil back to the hole. You plant your tree and then the tree sinks below grade. That will help kill a tree.

Make sure you plant your tree so that the "roof flair" is visible and exposed. Root flair is where the trunk meets the roots. You should always be able to see that.

Another issue I often see is using too much mulch. When mulch is piled up and covers up that root flair, then you are weakening the pressure pivot point of the tree. So even after mulching, you should still be able to see that root flair.

There are no problems with your location. Live Oaks grow well in Central Texas. But container Live Oaks can be a bit finicky until established.

During a hot summer like we had last year, I would normally give the tree a 5 gallon bucket of water every two weeks. You can mix into the water some Superthrive. That's in addition to your sprinkler system output. That will make it happy. The best thing to do is establish a "bubbler" at the base of the tree when planted. A bubbler directly waters the tree's root ball and is connected to the nearest sprinkler line. Every time you turn that zone on, the bubbler will supply water to the tree. Its much better for the tree than regular spray heads nearby.
 
I live really close to Georgetown, neighbors and I had live oaks die while others in the same yard lived. Blame the big freeze that hit a couple of years ago, that probably did them in.

I don't know that it was the freeze or the heat waves we've had the last two summers – or a combination of both. Just like humans, trees are not the same. So it's not unusual to see a tree go down while surrounding ones thrive. Some are tougher than others.

The last two springs – we've not had the rainfall that we're supposed to get, so that helped make summer more difficult for trees.
 
Did the leaves turn yellow from the veins to the tip or the other way around? From veins to tip is oak wilt. Between oak wilt and snovid, three quarters of my live oaks have died. The only upside is that I have more pasture grass now, if the thistle don't take over.
Best thing to do with Oak Wilt trees is to cut them down and bury them (or haul them to a dump). As long as they're there, they will be a source of Oak Wilt. If you burn them, Oak Wilt will still spread.
 
Best thing to do with Oak Wilt trees is to cut them down and bury them (or haul them to a dump). As long as they're there, they will be a source of Oak Wilt. If you burn them, Oak Wilt will still spread.
Has anyone ever figured out what the vector is for oak wilt? For me it was airborne and when an easement was bulldozed.
 
Has anyone ever figured out what the vector is for oak wilt? For me it was airborne and when an easement was bulldozed.
It is airborne, but only during the pollination season which runs from March through June. So if the demo was done in that time span and there were Oak Wilt infested trees as part of that, that's probably how your trees got it.
 
Think got me case sod worms. As walk across yard moth like things come up.

Sounds like you do. Those moths are laying eggs.

I would apply a granular Bifenythrin product. When watered, the product dissolves and drips down on the larvae/worms. Spraying them with liquid Bifenythrin does not work as you have to make direct contact with your chemical.

Its pretty early for that to be happening. Have you been pretty dry there where you're at?
 
I live really close to Georgetown, neighbors and I had live oaks die while others in the same yard lived. Blame the big freeze that hit a couple of years ago, that probably did them in.
It somehow survived the freeze but didn't make it through the summer heat. If anything, I over watered it.

Professionally planted, no mulch, just lots of water.
 
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It somehow survived the freeze but didn't make it through the summer heat. If anything, I over watered it.

Professionally planted, no mulch, just lots of water.
Based on my neighborhood, the freeze gave the trees their initial damage and then as @Sirhornsalot stated above, the drought probably did them in. My tree guy stated no amount of water would save mine but I wanted to try and save it but it died. The good news was it was still pretty young so I didn't have to pay someone to take it out because I did it.
 
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Sounds like you do. Those moths are laying eggs.

I would apply a granular Bifenythrin product. When watered, the product dissolves and drips down on the larvae/worms. Spraying them with liquid Bifenythrin does not work as you have to make direct contact with your chemical.

Its pretty early for that to be happening. Have you been pretty dry there where you're at?
Naw,about average for a February already in high 70's. We have been getting showers
 
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Based on my neighborhood, the freeze gave the trees their initial damage and then as @Sirhornsalot stated above, the drought probably did them in. My tree guy stated no amount of water would save mine but I wanted to try and save it but it died. The good news was it was still pretty young so I didn't have to pay someone to take it out because I did it.

Although Live Oaks are native and grow prolifically here in Texas, those that are started in containers end up being pretty finicky. The success rate is about 75%.

If you want a more sure thing, try the Shumard Red Oak. Easy to grow, fast grower and with a perfect shape. I would give my new tree a 5 gal bucket of water (I mix in nutrients) every two weeks. When it's 100 outside, I sometimes do it weekly.
 
Although Live Oaks are native and grow prolifically here in Texas, those that are started in containers end up being pretty finicky. The success rate is about 75%.

If you want a more sure thing, try the Shumard Red Oak. Easy to grow, fast grower and with a perfect shape. I would give my new tree a 5 gal bucket of water (I mix in nutrients) every two weeks. When it's 100 outside, I sometimes do it weekly.
Actually they planted the live oaks too close to each other so I'm just sticking with one in that area now.
 
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Actually they planted the live oaks too close to each other so I'm just sticking with one in that area now.
Can you plant live oaks too close together? My naturalized oaks can make some tight groves. Some trees aren't but two feet apart on my place.
 
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Can you plant live oaks too close together? My naturalized oaks can make some tight groves. Some trees aren't but two feet apart on my place.
My old house had 2 planted real close to each other in the front yard. When they get big, very little sunlight hits the grass so it starts to thin out. You also have the problem of the branches growing into each other, so you end up trimming them a lot. So yes, IMHO, they can be planted to close to each other.
 
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Can you plant live oaks too close together? My naturalized oaks can make some tight groves. Some trees aren't but two feet apart on my place.

That's right. Live Oaks will grow right next to each other. But that is a natural thing. It's a different with planted live oaks, which are rather finicky for a native tree.