Sirhornsalot
**The Official Horn Sports Landscaper and Landscap
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2013
- Messages
- 33,307
Wow, the summer seemed to just fly by although these last few weeks have been a bear. Here north of DFW airport, we’ve received no rain since July 9. Thankfully, other parts of Texas have but nevertheless, it’s still hot and dry even though the brunt of summer has supposedly past us by. Those incredible spring rains really saved us this year.
Enough of the past, let’s talk about September. Much to talk about with September as it is one of those transitional months where the weather/climate is in the midst of change. We must change with it.
WATERING
Labor Day is normally the day we designate as the time to switch your sprinkler cycles (and manual watering) to early morning/daytime hours instead of the late night hours we’ve been doing all summer to this point. Since the month of August began, we’ve lost about an hour of sunlight with the sunset coming 30 minutes earlier and sunrise coming 30 minutes later.
The window of daylight will continue to shrink until the winter solstice in December. This means that the conditions that set up for fungus to develop and grow are now coming together. This is why we change to morning waterings.
If you’re a do-it-yourselfer, this is a good time to examine your sprinkler coverage to make sure heads are operating as they should.
Lawn fungus. Note the circular shapes of dying grass in this lawn. Clear evidence of fungus at work.
FUNGUS
There are a few different varieties of fungus that can develop in a lawn. While fungus can hit any type of grass, St Augustine is the primary target. “Brown Patch†and “Take-All Patch†are two common types of fungus that we deal with in Texas.
The average homeowner can detect fungus damage by the circular shapes of dying or dead grass, black spots on the blades (known as dollarspot), and a general yellowing of the turf. Watering does not help. Fertilizer does not help. In fact, both water and fertilizer together can enhance fungal growth.
Watering in the morning helps stop the set up as the turf has all day to dry out prior to the arrival of nightfall when cooler temps and damp conditions would otherwise help start a fungus.
If you think you have a fungus active in your lawn, a simple granular or liquid fungicide normally does the trick. Sometimes a second application is necessary. Liquid fungicide is a more immediate effect, however, the granular will work for a longer period of time. Ideally, you use both.
FERTILIZATION
It’s now time for the third and final fertilization of your lawn. You may opt to use a straight fertilizer or a weed/feed combination. Either is fine. That said, you do want to look closely at the suggested application rate and reduce that rate, slightly, for this application. As stated above, fertilizer or the nitrogen in fertilizer will actually help fungus develop. So a reduced rate is safe, combined with adjusted watering habits.
Additionally, get the proper fertilizer for your lawn and for this time of year. High-nitrogen fertilizers are risky for turf this time of year as a sudden cooling of the climate would present a problem. If you have St Augustine turf, your fertilizer should have a nitrogen content of 15 to 19 and no higher. The same holds true for Zoysia. Bermuda can handle a higher amount as it is not as susceptible to fungus.
Remember, the nitrogen number you’re concerned with here is the first of three numbers shown on every bag of fertilizer. So if you’re seeing “15-0-4†on the bag, that means the nitrogen number is 15. Second number is phosphorous, and the third is potash.
Read the label and make sure you’re using a product made for your lawn. For example, if you’re using a weed/feed, different products are made for St Augustine/Zoysia vs Bermuda. It’s not a one product fits all situation. So read the label and make sure your grass type is listed on the back for use.
THE CHINCH IS BACK
Having driven around the Metroplex and Austin to some extent in the past few weeks, it’s easy to see the chinch bugs are out in full force. One new customer I met with this past week, every house on their street had chinch bug damage in the front.
If you’re seeing dead, totally dried out turf that is located near a concrete, stone or metal source, that is likely chinch damage. Every August, late in the month, these guys start creating chaos in lawns. Keep an eye out for this and contact a landscaper if you think you’re observing that damage in your own lawn.
One old fashioned way of determining whether or not you have chinch bugs is to take a coffee can (small one will do, metal is preferable), remove both ends of the can using a can opener, sink the can a quarter-inch into the ground in the area you suspect have chinch bugs. Pour soapy water into the can. The chinch bugs, if present, will float to the top.
TREE TRIMMING
Now is a great time to get your trees trimmed, particularly deciduous trees as in another month or two their leaves will begin dropping and it will be more difficult to gauge what needs to be trimmed/removed at that time.
With a wet and colder winter predicted for Texas, be wise and address your trees before its too late. When winter storms come, unnecessarily thick and congested canopies suffer greatly when covered in ice or snow. To avoid these issues, have them trimmed in fall so that overweighted limbs, redundant growth, threats to your roof/roofline can all be addressed.
WINTER RYE
The first and second week of October is the best time to sew your winter rye if you live in North Texas. That said, supply for winter rye is now hitting the store shelves and I advise you to get it early as the best seed available always seems to be the first couple of batches circulated. Make sure you also buy a nice 21 or 22-0-0 straight fertilizer to apply with your seed. DO NOT apply a pre emergent to your lawn if you intend to sew winter rye.
With the abundant spring rains we received in spring and are expected to receive in late fall/winter, this is an ideal set up for having a winter rye lawn. That said, I do not recommend overseeding with winter rye if you have St Augustine or Zoysia turf. Both varieties of grass will go dormant late and emerge early. If winter rye is in place, it will interrupt/slow down the emergence of St Aug/Zoysia in spring.
If you have a Bermuda lawn, by all means, go right ahead. To prep for sewing winter rye, you will want to scalp your lawn and collect all debris left behind. The key here is that your seed must make contact with the soil. Without that, no germination. So spreading a light coating of topsoil after your seed is always a good idea, if your lawn is small enough that its practical.
After you’ve sewn and applied your fertilizer (fertilizer helps speed up germination), you’ll want to apply another round of the same fertilizer again in December or January.
Nutsedge
SEPTEMBER BAD GUY
This time of year is when the dreaded Nutsedge becomes a problem. It’s the weed that pops up in places where your turf isn’t strong and it looks a lot like Monkey Grass (Liriope). It is a weed that grows a “nut†buried beneath the surface. When this weed is pulled, it just shoots up another. Regular weed killers don’t bother nutsedge. A product designed specifically for nutsedge needs to be used, such as “ProSedge†or “Sedgehammer.†Once applied, it takes a week to kill it.
There are several varieties of nutsedge, some of them have a flower at the top that is green. One plant we commonly see in landscapes is the Umbrella Plant, which is a distant cousin of nutsedge.
TREES, TREES, TREES!
I’m often asked when the best time to plant trees is. Well, that time is Fall. Planting in the fall gives the tree several months to become acclimated to its new home prior to the onslaught of summer heat. When the time for spring growth comes, it’s already in the ground and roots are then exploring the new surrounding soil. This is the ideal set up. So if you’re considering planting a tree, the time is now.
PRODUCT TRY OUT
(this is not a paid endorsement)
I enjoy trying new things that are introduced to the landscape industry. I am currently trying out a product called "Smart Pot." They are available on Amazon. It's appeal is the fiber sides which allow the free passage of air into the root system. It also allows heat to escape.
So far, the cucumber I have planted in the Smart Pot that I purchased (7 gallon size) is outperforming the cucumber planted in the pot right next to it, which is a traditional black plastic pot found in nurseries (also 7 gallon size). The soil each are planted in is the same. The location is the same. The watering and supplements have been the same.
The Smart Pot cucumber has much more vigorous leaf growth and root growth. Both are currently flowering and have not produced fruit yet. One of the claims the product states is that it will produce more fruit. We shall see but it's looking good so far.
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pots-7-Gallon-Soft-Sided-Container/dp/B0055E8RUG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1441059959&sr=8-2&keywords=smart+pot+7+gallon
Enough of the past, let’s talk about September. Much to talk about with September as it is one of those transitional months where the weather/climate is in the midst of change. We must change with it.
WATERING
Labor Day is normally the day we designate as the time to switch your sprinkler cycles (and manual watering) to early morning/daytime hours instead of the late night hours we’ve been doing all summer to this point. Since the month of August began, we’ve lost about an hour of sunlight with the sunset coming 30 minutes earlier and sunrise coming 30 minutes later.
The window of daylight will continue to shrink until the winter solstice in December. This means that the conditions that set up for fungus to develop and grow are now coming together. This is why we change to morning waterings.
If you’re a do-it-yourselfer, this is a good time to examine your sprinkler coverage to make sure heads are operating as they should.
Lawn fungus. Note the circular shapes of dying grass in this lawn. Clear evidence of fungus at work.
FUNGUS
There are a few different varieties of fungus that can develop in a lawn. While fungus can hit any type of grass, St Augustine is the primary target. “Brown Patch†and “Take-All Patch†are two common types of fungus that we deal with in Texas.
The average homeowner can detect fungus damage by the circular shapes of dying or dead grass, black spots on the blades (known as dollarspot), and a general yellowing of the turf. Watering does not help. Fertilizer does not help. In fact, both water and fertilizer together can enhance fungal growth.
Watering in the morning helps stop the set up as the turf has all day to dry out prior to the arrival of nightfall when cooler temps and damp conditions would otherwise help start a fungus.
If you think you have a fungus active in your lawn, a simple granular or liquid fungicide normally does the trick. Sometimes a second application is necessary. Liquid fungicide is a more immediate effect, however, the granular will work for a longer period of time. Ideally, you use both.
FERTILIZATION
It’s now time for the third and final fertilization of your lawn. You may opt to use a straight fertilizer or a weed/feed combination. Either is fine. That said, you do want to look closely at the suggested application rate and reduce that rate, slightly, for this application. As stated above, fertilizer or the nitrogen in fertilizer will actually help fungus develop. So a reduced rate is safe, combined with adjusted watering habits.
Additionally, get the proper fertilizer for your lawn and for this time of year. High-nitrogen fertilizers are risky for turf this time of year as a sudden cooling of the climate would present a problem. If you have St Augustine turf, your fertilizer should have a nitrogen content of 15 to 19 and no higher. The same holds true for Zoysia. Bermuda can handle a higher amount as it is not as susceptible to fungus.
Remember, the nitrogen number you’re concerned with here is the first of three numbers shown on every bag of fertilizer. So if you’re seeing “15-0-4†on the bag, that means the nitrogen number is 15. Second number is phosphorous, and the third is potash.
Read the label and make sure you’re using a product made for your lawn. For example, if you’re using a weed/feed, different products are made for St Augustine/Zoysia vs Bermuda. It’s not a one product fits all situation. So read the label and make sure your grass type is listed on the back for use.
THE CHINCH IS BACK
Having driven around the Metroplex and Austin to some extent in the past few weeks, it’s easy to see the chinch bugs are out in full force. One new customer I met with this past week, every house on their street had chinch bug damage in the front.
If you’re seeing dead, totally dried out turf that is located near a concrete, stone or metal source, that is likely chinch damage. Every August, late in the month, these guys start creating chaos in lawns. Keep an eye out for this and contact a landscaper if you think you’re observing that damage in your own lawn.
One old fashioned way of determining whether or not you have chinch bugs is to take a coffee can (small one will do, metal is preferable), remove both ends of the can using a can opener, sink the can a quarter-inch into the ground in the area you suspect have chinch bugs. Pour soapy water into the can. The chinch bugs, if present, will float to the top.
TREE TRIMMING
Now is a great time to get your trees trimmed, particularly deciduous trees as in another month or two their leaves will begin dropping and it will be more difficult to gauge what needs to be trimmed/removed at that time.
With a wet and colder winter predicted for Texas, be wise and address your trees before its too late. When winter storms come, unnecessarily thick and congested canopies suffer greatly when covered in ice or snow. To avoid these issues, have them trimmed in fall so that overweighted limbs, redundant growth, threats to your roof/roofline can all be addressed.
WINTER RYE
The first and second week of October is the best time to sew your winter rye if you live in North Texas. That said, supply for winter rye is now hitting the store shelves and I advise you to get it early as the best seed available always seems to be the first couple of batches circulated. Make sure you also buy a nice 21 or 22-0-0 straight fertilizer to apply with your seed. DO NOT apply a pre emergent to your lawn if you intend to sew winter rye.
With the abundant spring rains we received in spring and are expected to receive in late fall/winter, this is an ideal set up for having a winter rye lawn. That said, I do not recommend overseeding with winter rye if you have St Augustine or Zoysia turf. Both varieties of grass will go dormant late and emerge early. If winter rye is in place, it will interrupt/slow down the emergence of St Aug/Zoysia in spring.
If you have a Bermuda lawn, by all means, go right ahead. To prep for sewing winter rye, you will want to scalp your lawn and collect all debris left behind. The key here is that your seed must make contact with the soil. Without that, no germination. So spreading a light coating of topsoil after your seed is always a good idea, if your lawn is small enough that its practical.
After you’ve sewn and applied your fertilizer (fertilizer helps speed up germination), you’ll want to apply another round of the same fertilizer again in December or January.
Nutsedge
SEPTEMBER BAD GUY
This time of year is when the dreaded Nutsedge becomes a problem. It’s the weed that pops up in places where your turf isn’t strong and it looks a lot like Monkey Grass (Liriope). It is a weed that grows a “nut†buried beneath the surface. When this weed is pulled, it just shoots up another. Regular weed killers don’t bother nutsedge. A product designed specifically for nutsedge needs to be used, such as “ProSedge†or “Sedgehammer.†Once applied, it takes a week to kill it.
There are several varieties of nutsedge, some of them have a flower at the top that is green. One plant we commonly see in landscapes is the Umbrella Plant, which is a distant cousin of nutsedge.
TREES, TREES, TREES!
I’m often asked when the best time to plant trees is. Well, that time is Fall. Planting in the fall gives the tree several months to become acclimated to its new home prior to the onslaught of summer heat. When the time for spring growth comes, it’s already in the ground and roots are then exploring the new surrounding soil. This is the ideal set up. So if you’re considering planting a tree, the time is now.
PRODUCT TRY OUT
(this is not a paid endorsement)
I enjoy trying new things that are introduced to the landscape industry. I am currently trying out a product called "Smart Pot." They are available on Amazon. It's appeal is the fiber sides which allow the free passage of air into the root system. It also allows heat to escape.
So far, the cucumber I have planted in the Smart Pot that I purchased (7 gallon size) is outperforming the cucumber planted in the pot right next to it, which is a traditional black plastic pot found in nurseries (also 7 gallon size). The soil each are planted in is the same. The location is the same. The watering and supplements have been the same.
The Smart Pot cucumber has much more vigorous leaf growth and root growth. Both are currently flowering and have not produced fruit yet. One of the claims the product states is that it will produce more fruit. We shall see but it's looking good so far.
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pots-7-Gallon-Soft-Sided-Container/dp/B0055E8RUG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1441059959&sr=8-2&keywords=smart+pot+7+gallon
