Jump to content

Welcome to HornSports

Join our community and talk about the latest in Texas Longhorns Athletics!

Sign in to follow this  

May Landscapes – Rose Rosette Disease

Recommended Posts


Deformed growth, the newest growth on the rose plant, is a classic sign of Dallas Rose Disease.


DFW still a sick ward for roses

Lack of cooperation poses problem for eradicating fatal disease

I wrote this column a few years ago regarding Dallas Rose Disease. I think it's worth putting this message out there again. 

As you have witnessed with the Coronavirus responses by various federal, state and local governments, those of us in the landscape field in Dallas-Fort Worth have been trying to gain similar traction with the precautions for Dallas Rose Disease.

However, that message seems to not sink in with commercial property owners many times. Two years ago I informed the owner of a large automated carwash business in Lewisville that the 100 or so roses he had encircling the place were all suffering from Dallas Roses Disease. I let him know that there is no cure and that simply having them in the ground there at his carwash was putting every rose within five miles at risk. He seemed receptive to having them removed, a minimal cost for most landscape companies.

This week, I went by there again. The roses were still there. He had trimmed them back because he incorrectly assumed he could cut the disease away. And right on cue, everything that was new growth on them was diseased and ugly.

A little pressure from his customers or from the general public might be persuasive here.

Horticulturists, landscape professional and gardeners in North Texas are all trying to figure out how to deal with a disease that has been killing roses across the region for more than a decade now. Its at epidemic proportions now.

The disease has been so prevalent in the Dallas-Fort Worth area that its common name has now become “Dallas Rose Disease” instead of Rose Rosette.

It was first detected in the Metroplex in 1998 and has since spread to 14 North Texas counties, including Denton, Collin, Rockwall, Grason and Ellis in addition to Tarrant and Dallas. No one is really sure why its become so problematic here. No one really knows why it hasn’t spread to other parts of the state.



Note the millions of thorns on the stalk, another deformation caused by Dallas Rose Disease.

It was first discovered in Northern California back in the 1940s and spread across the northern tier of the US. And for many years, there was no real presence of the disease to be found . . . until 1998.

Since then, literally thousands of various species of roses have been pulled from the ground in the Metroplex. 

Dallas Rose Disease is a virus pathogen that is spread by a tiny, wingless mite. The mites penetrate the rose when they go to feed on the plant’s sap, transmitting the virus to the rose. The rose will then die within two to three years. However, they become so disfigured and ugly that most are removed before they die.

The heartbreaker here is that this disease is fatal. There is no known cure. They must be removed or they become a risk for other nearby roses. These mites can be blown from landscape to landscape by the wind. They can crawl from bush to bush. And they are also transported on gardening tools, and even apparel that brushes against an infected bush.



A study is currently underway by the US Department of Agriculture to work on finding answers.

So how do you know whether or not your roses have this disease? The most obvious signs are reddish new growth, featuring deformed leaves and a crazy number of thorns. Now new growth on roses is usually red, but turns green as it matures. Diseased red growth will not turn green.

It is said that this disease targets the hybrid Knock-Out and Double Knock-Out Roses, but that cannot be true since the disease was around prior to the creation of both species. It does seem to strike them more often, but likely because so many have been planted since their introduction in 2000.

It could have become an epidemic-sized problem because so many of the Knock-Outs were planted, and often so close together. This should become a lesson to us all. Too much of anything can lead to problems.

Within our own customer base, about half of our customers have had roses in the last five to six years. From that, about half of those have had to have them removed due to the disease.

Knowing the issue is serious and is present, do we still plant roses? Yes, we have done that upon customer request and with warning that the disease could strike them down at some point. Some feel the risk is worth it.

To defeat this disease, it will require a community-wide effort across all communities in the affected 14-county area. From gardeners and landscapers to HOAs, property managers, etc., all will need to work together to eradicate the disease through educating the public, removing all known diseased specimens in a timely fashion, and informing property owners when the disease is diagnosed on their property. Some of the things we can do to prevent spreading this disease is to keep our tools clean, using hydrogen peroxide to clean them with after each use, and regularly aerating the soil around roses as well as feeding them to keep them in tip-top health.



Fertilization, Grub worms

If you haven’t already done so, go ahead and get that weed/feed or fertilizer applied to your lawn. April was the month to do this but its fine if you hit it in early May.

In late May, you will want to treat your lawn for grub worms. Grub worms come from larvae laid last year by the Japanese Beatle. There is no way to keep these Beatles from coming to your property but we can do something about them once their larvae become worms and start working their way to the root zone of your turf grass.

Grub worms can cause a lot of damage to a lawn and most homeowners will not recognize the damage is being done until its become bad. So rather than wait to see evidence of their presence, we treat the lawn according to what time grubs normally begin feeding on your turf grass roots. Their rise to the surface is dictate mostly by climate temperatures. Last year, grubs began feeding in early May due to a very mild winter and warm spring.

This year, we’re still getting a taste of winter well into spring, so I’m projecting a late May timing for grubs this year.

If you can have this professionally done, do so. The products professionals work with are designed to zero-in on these critters. One application of their products normally does the trick. However, if you must buy retail and do it yourself, then plan on applying twice, two weeks apart. Spectracide’s Triazamide is a good product as well as Scott’s Grub-Ex. It is best to not use products that try to kill grubs and fertilize in the same bag. There are products out there like that and its best to avoid them.



May Flowers!

Hopefully by now you’ve planted your spring and summer flowers. If not, it’s not too late to get that going. 

I’m often asked, what can I do to make my flowers bloom more or to get more blooms? First, most all flowering plants require sunlight. So make sure flowers that demand full sun, get full sun. You also want to make sure they get the water they need to be healthy and strong.

However, another thing you can do to make this happen is increase the available phosphorus in the soil. Phosphorus helps increase fruit production, helps root development – and helps produce more flower buds.

There are a couple of good ways of getting this phosphorus to the plant. One, you can mix rock phosphate or fish bone meal into your planting mix during the planting process. You can also add phosphorus through the use of a water-soluble fertilizer that is high in phosphorus. Such products are often called “bloom boosters” and are low enough in nitrogen to be safe for delicate flowers.

One such product I recommend is by Carl Pool called BR-61. It is available on the retail market at nurseries, garden suppliers and also amazon. It comes in a tub with a scoop inside. Mix with water according to the directions of on the container. Do not mix heavy.

Got a Question?

Feel free to ask any questions you might have. Whether its something you’re currently dealing with in your own landscape or something you experience previously but never understood. Fire away!

(Mark’s column each month is sponsored by Stagecoach Trailers, Inc., of Naples, Texas. Find them at www.stagecoachtrailers.com)


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Let's have a little fun while we're waiting on life to return to normal for everyone, shall we?

I won't say where this is located or who built it. I am using the below picture for the point only.

What is wrong in this picture? The answer will be one of the main topics of next month's landscape column.

Go ahead, let me hear your thoughts . . . 


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Bear19 said:

I’ll give it a shot. One of two things. You don’t want to build a retaining wall around tree root structure. Or you don’t want to build a house with any hint of maroon color.

What do I win?

You're actually correct on the retaining wall thing.

IMO, it looks like someone is awful proud of their work. lol The whole thing became about the masonry and no consideration given to the tree, which is dying btw. 

Most tree rings on a decline will have an extra layer of stone in the front. But this goes beyond, well beyond. This ring is about 12 inches too high.

Most rings with a multi-level build will have drain holes in the front. This has none.

So this is a retaining wall of sorts, which will retain all the rain it will rain. Until this is corrected, every tree they put there will likely die.

Lastly, even if none of what I just said was correct – why put a dinky little tree with such a huge monstrosity?

I think what happened here is someone asked a neighborhood guy "hey do you do stone work?" and then everything went downhill from there.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I took a good question today. I thought I'd share:

Q – Hey Mark, I got 5 inches of rain over the weekend. I have a brand new landscape and was wondering if I should allow my regularly scheduled watering this evening to run.

A – With a new or established landscape, its a very good idea to skip a watering cycle right after a significant rainfall event. Most plants love to get water – but they like to dry out in between waterings. Too much water, especially on the east or north side of your home, would cause problems.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good morning Mark,

I'm having new fence put in.  Parts of my  yard are now trampled between the fence work area and their truck.  Mud covering the grass, grass packed down now, etc.  Unfortunately this is part of the lawn we successfully repaired post Harvey flooding thanks to your assistance (ref conversation from a few years ago).  What would be good measures to help bring the grass back to life?

Thanks, I'll hang up and listen.  

And as always, Hookem 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Earl Nobis Jefferson said:

Good morning Mark,

I'm having new fence put in.  Parts of my  yard are now trampled between the fence work area and their truck.  Mud covering the grass, grass packed down now, etc.  Unfortunately this is part of the lawn we successfully repaired post Harvey flooding thanks to your assistance (ref conversation from a few years ago).  What would be good measures to help bring the grass back to life?

Thanks, I'll hang up and listen.  

And as always, Hookem 

Good to hear from you again. 

I would go ahead and aerate the lawn then just let rain do the rest. The truck and equipment compacted the soil there during their work, so aeration would resolve that. 

If you haven't fed the lawn yet, you could do that right after aeration. Water in immediately after, of course.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Create New...